Monday, February 11, 2013

Veal Preah Man open to public


Now that Royal funeral is over and done, the grounds of Veal Preah Man (a.k.a. Veal Preah Meru), the funerary complex of the late King Father Sihanouk, is open to the public for the first time since it was constructed. The entire complex except the interior of the central crematorium was open today. I don't know how long it will remain open or the hours, but today the guard there told me that it would be open for at least the immediate future.

This entire complex was constructed specifically and exclusively for the funeral of the late King Father Sihanouk. Similar crematoriums were built for previous Kings of Cambodia (including Sihanouk's father King Suramarith in 1960) on this same spot, and then dismantled sometime after the funeral, leaving an open park. I don't know when or if this complex will be similarly dismantled, but assume it will. There was some talk before the funeral that it would be left in place, but it does not appear to be built to last. Much of the construction is just painted plasterboard and in my inexpert opinion wouldn't last long in the rain. If you want to see Veal Preah Man close up and in all its splendor, I think you should visit fairly soon.     

If you happen to be touring Cambodia right now, or have any interest in Cambodian culture or history, this is a absolutely unique opportunity to see a fleeting bit of living Cambodia history.

It is located in on Sothearos Blvd between streets 178 and 184 in Veal Preah Man Park, next to the Royal Palace and in front of the National Museum 


The Cambodia Daily: In Pictures, Cambodia Prepares for King Father’s Cremation
LTO: Funeral of Sihanouk: Final Touches
LTO: Funeral of Sihanouk: Day 4, cremation

Sunday, February 10, 2013

Cambodia's other New Year


Chinese New Year (Tet) at Wat Phnom is always an amazing experience. I continue to be surprised that so few (if any) foreigners/tourists come to see the scene at midnight. This year I saw 3 besides myself. I've done photo essays of Chinese New Year at Wat Phnom the past couple of years and so won't burden the reader with yet more photos of the coming of the year.  (See Greeting the Dragon at Wat Phnom - 2012 and It's New Year again - 2011.) But I couldn't resist taking a couple of short shaky videos with my iPad, and managed to capture the clamorous scene at midnight.

A few points of note: This was the end of the year of the Dragon (Naga on the Khmer calendar) and the beginning of the year of the Snake, the Water Snake to be specific... The crowd at Wat Phnom was about the same size as last year - a good crowd but still a bit smaller than the crowds of 5-10 years ago... Unlike last year, there were more beggars lining the steps up the hill this year, including a couple of dozen young children. Many people brought stacks of small bills especially for the beggars... Midnight seemed to arrive a little late this year. As I was filming I could hear people in the crowd muttering "midnight already." The clock on my iPad concurred. Yet the gong was not sounding. About a minute later the bell clanged, people cheered and the New Year was officially in... Lastly, in the videos notice the motorcycle helmets and aluminum foil gloves that people were wearing to try to protect against incense burns. People have been wearing helmets for the last year or two, but the foil gloves are, to my memory, a new innovation this year. Check out 1:00 in the second video - midnight, the moment New Year arrives - to see why such protective gear is necessary.

The first video is about 15 minutes before midnight. The second video from 11:59PM to 12:03AM and captures the moment New Year enters. 

Chinese New Year, 2013. About 15-20 minutes before midnight at Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh. Note people wearing motorcycle helmets and foil gloves to protect against incense burns.

Chinese New Year, 2013. Midnight at Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh. 
See 1:00 for the moment the New Year gong sounded.

Saturday, February 9, 2013

Death of Sihanouk: 118 days of links

Front page of The Cambodia Daily, October 16, 2012, King Father Norodom Sihanouk Dies at 89
The Cambodia Daily, October 16, 2012
'King Father Norodom Sihanouk Dies at 89'
The Cambodia Daily also published a sensitive and informed obituary online the morning of Oct 15 within hours of Sihanouk's death, ('The Cambodia Daily: King Father Norodom Sihanouk Dies at 89'.)

The following list of links to articles covers the death and funeral of King Father Norodom Sihanouk from the day of his death through today. It is not comprehensive but (I believe) includes most of the major articles on the subject as well as articles addressing all of the important events, turns and announcements related to the death of the King Father. Articles in bold are of special note of some sort - either particularly good, contain unique content or made some sort of significant impact on the on-going discussion of Sihanouk's death. Bolding does not necessarily mean that I think the article is good or agree with the content. For example, The Fantasy of King Sihanouk by Philip Gourevitch was a particularly awful piece, inaccurate and biased, but generated a lot of reaction and discussion and led to one of the most interesting and heart-felt pieces on Sihanouk (and my personal favorite,) An Ode to Norodom Sihanouk—A Rock Star King by Kevin Barrington. The Cambodia Daily and VOA both offer rich sources of information on the death of Sihanouk and are available online. The Phnom Penh Post also published several informative articles over the course of the past three months, but as the Post articles are only available online for a short period without subscription, I have not included them in this list.

Obituaries
NYT: Norodom Sihanouk, Cambodian Leader Through Shifting Allegiances, Dies at 89, Oct 14
VOA: Former Cambodian King Norodom Sihanouk Dies, Oct 14
The Cambodia Daily: King Father Norodom Sihanouk Dies at 89 by Michelle Vachon, Oct 15 
Time: Cambodia’s Mercurial Former King, Norodom Sihanouk, Dies at 89, Oct 15
Blue lady blog: Death of King Sihanouk makes world headlines, Oct 15
LTO Cambodia blog: King Father Norodom Sihanouk, Oct 15
VOA: Former Cambodian King Norodom Sihanouk Dies, Oct 15
Xinhuanet: Cambodian former King Norodom Sihanouk dies at age of 90, Oct 15
WSJ: Cambodian King Left Mixed Legacy, Oct 15
BBC: Cambodia former king Norodom Sihanouk dies aged 89, Oct 15
AFP: Cambodia's ex-king Norodom Sihanouk dies in Beijing, Oct 15
AFP: China offers condolences for 'great friend' Sihanouk, Oct 15
SMH: Cambodia's political chameleon Sihanouk dies, Oct 15
John Vink: King Sihanouk Dies..., Oct 15
VOA: Cambodia Mourns Former King Who Shaped Decades of History, by Irwin Loy, Oct 15
VOA: Cambodia's Former King Leaves Mixed Legacy, Oct 15
VOA: Cambodian-Americans Mourn Death of Former King Sihanouk, Oct 15
VOA: China Considered Cambodian King Key Ally, Oct 15
Death of a survivor: Norodom Sihanouk by Milton Osborne, Oct 15
The Death of Cambodia's Nimble Prince by James Pringle, Oct 15
The Guardian: King Norodom Sihanouk obituary by Martin Woollacott, Oct 15
BBC: Cambodia former king Norodom Sihanouk dies aged 89 by Guy Delauney, Oct 15
The Bloodied Legacy of Cambodia’s Chameleon King by Mark McDonald, Oct 15
The New Yorker: The Fantasy of King Sihanouk by Philip Gourevitch, Oct 15
Cambodia Herald: King, Hun Sen head to Beijing to receive Sihanouk's body, Oct 15

VOA: Cambodians Mourn Revered ex-King Sihanouk, Oct 16
The Cambodia Daily: Condolences for King Sihanouk Arrive From Home and Abroad, Oct 16
The Cambodia Daily: Nation Mourns King Father’s Death, Oct 16
The Cambodia Daily: Young and Old Mark Passing of ‘The Last King’, Oct 16 
The Cambodia Daily: King Father Communicated Through His Website Until the Very End, Oct 16
LTO Cambodia blog: Death of Sihanouk, Twitter, First Reactions, Oct 16
Cambodia braces for biggest royal funeral in half a century (Funeral of King Suramarith), Oct 16

LTO Cambodia blog: Death of Sihanouk: Day 2, Oct 17
VOA: Former Cambodian King's Body Arrives in Phnom Penh, Oct 17
CNN: Former Cambodian King Norodom Sihanouk dies at 89, Oct 17
The Cambodia Daily: Norodom Sihanouk—The End of an Era, by Michelle Vachon Oct 17
The Cambodia Daily: 100,000 Expected to Welcome King Father’s Body, Oct 17
The Cambodia Daily: On the Eve of King’s Return, Unity at the Royal Palace, Oct 17
The Cambodia Daily: Tributes Pour In Praising Life, Legacy of Late King Father, Oct 17
RFA: Whither Cambodia's Monarchy?, by Parameswaran Ponnudurai, Oct 17

Beginning of first mourning period, Sihanouk's remains returned from China

The Economist: Norodom Sihanouk, Oct 18
The Economist: Cambodia after Sihanouk: Dancing off the stage?, Oct 18
LTO Cambodia blog: Death of Sihanouk: Day 3, Return, Oct 18
The Cambodia Daily: The King Father Remembered—in Pictures, Oct 18 

The Cambodia Daily: Tradition, Splendor for King Father’s Funeral, Oct 19 
The Cambodia Daily: One Million Line the Streets in Final Farewell to King Father, Oct 19
LTO Cambodia blog: Death of Sihanouk: Day 4, Mourners, Oct 19

LTO Cambodia blog: Death of Sihanouk: Day 6, Monks, Oct 20

LTO Cambodia blog: Death of Sihanouk: Day 7, Palace, Oct 21
The Cambodia Daily: Sam Rainsy Seeks Return To Bid King Father Norodom Sihanouk Farewell, Oct21

Sihanouk in the Moon
VOA Khmer: What Cambodians think about tonight moon on our Facebook Page, Oct 21
LTO Cambodia blog: Sihanouk in the Moon, Oct 22


VOA: Cambodia Prepares for Former King's Cremation, Jan 31,
The Cambodia Daily: In Pictures, Cambodia Prepares for King Father’s Cremation, Jan 31
LTO Cambodia blog: Funeral of Sihanouk: Final Touches, Jan 31
LTO Cambodia blog: Funeral schedule for Day 1, Jan 31

Funeral of Sihanouk: Procession
VOA: Cambodians Mourn Late King in Funeral Procession, Feb 1
The Cambodia Daily: In Pictures, a Funeral Fit for a King, Feb 1
The Cambodia Daily: Cambodian Officials Prepare Funeral Ceremony Fit for a King, Feb 1
LTO Cambodia blog: Funeral of Sihanouk: Day 1, Procession, Feb 1
John Vink blog: King Norodom Sihanouk Funeral, Day 1, Feb 1
John Vink blog: King N. Sihanouk Funeral, Last Days 2, Feb 1

AP: Sihanouk: Cambodia’s last true king, Feb 2
LTO Cambodia blog: Funeral of Sihanouk: Day 2, Feb 2
John Vink blog: King N. Sihanouk Funeral, Last Days 3, Feb 2
John Vink blog: King N. Sihanouk Funeral, Last Days 4, Feb 2
Telegraph: Strongman Hun Sen faces rising dissent over human rights as country mourns King, Feb 2

The Cambodia Daily: The Final Journey of King Father Norodom Sihanouk, Feb 3
The Cambodia Daily: A Generation Says Farewell to Their King, Norodom Sihanouk, Feb 3
LTO Cambodia blog: Funeral schedule for tomorrow, day 4, cremation, Feb 3
LTO Cambodia blog: Funeral of Sihanouk: Day 3, Feb 3
John Vink blog: King N. Sihanouk Funeral, Last Days 5, Feb 3
John Vink blog: King N. Sihanouk Funeral, Last Days 6, Feb 3
China Daily: China's top advisor arrives for Sihanouk's funeral, Feb 3

Funeral of Sihanouk: Cremation
VOA: Thousands Attend Cremation of Former Cambodian King, Feb 4
Global Post: Cambodia: Sihanouk's love affair with North Korea, Feb 4
The Cambodia Daily: Thai Spy Freed; 412 Prisoners to Be Released on Monday, Feb 4
The Cambodia Daily: Thousands Line Up to Pay Final Respects, Feb 4
AP: Cambodia Mourns as 'King-Father' Sihanouk Cremated, Feb 4
BBC: Cambodia cremates former King Sihanouk, Feb 4
BBC: In pictures: Cambodia mourns King Sihanouk, Feb 4
LTO Cambodia blog: Funeral of Sihanouk: Day 4, cremation, Feb 4
Global Post: Cambodia sends off King Father Sihanouk in fiery ceremony by Faine Greenwood, Feb 4
Chasing Trade Winds blog: "getting past the barriers", Feb 4
Chasing Trade Winds blog: Thousands gathered..., Feb 4
John Vink blog: King N. Sihanouk Funeral, Last Days 7, Feb 4
John Vink blog: King N. Sihanouk Funeral, Last Days 8, Feb 4
Norodom Sihanouk - Final Goodbyes, Feb 4
VOA: Cremation of Former King Sihanouk Takes Place in Cambodia, Feb 4
Cambodia Herald: Key dates during Sihanouk's lifetime, Feb 4
ThaRum (blog): News in videos: final farewell to Cambodia’s King Father Norodom Sihanouk, Feb 4

Present at Sihanouk's Fire, by James Pringle, Feb 5
Ashes of Cambodia's revered ex-king lowered into river, Feb 5
ANN: Cambodia farewells former king Norodom Sihanouk, Feb 5
SEA Globe: Like father, unlike son, Feb 5
SEA Globe: Long live the king, Feb 5
The Cambodia Daily: A Nation Bids Farewell to Its Beloved King Father, Feb 5
The Cambodia Daily: 110 Days of Remembering Norodom Sihanouk, Feb 5
The Cambodia Daily: Police Chief Hits Military Police Officers at Cremation Site, Feb 5
The Cambodia Daily: Mourners Rush to Buy King Father Mementos, Feb 5
LTO Cambodia blog: Funeral of Sihanouk: Day 5, ashes, Feb 5
John Vink blog: King N. Sihanouk Funeral, Last Days 9, Feb 5
VOA: Sihanouk Remains Collected, Dispersed, Feb 5
Telegraph: Cambodian King Sihanouk's ashes scattered on Mekong (video), Feb 5

VOA: Sihanouk’s Cremains Cast to the Rivers of Cambodia, Feb 6
Soma Norodom's Blog: Letter to Our Beloved King Father, Feb 6
Cambodia's king is dead, long live the Prime Minister, Feb 6
Irwin Loy: Photos: A royal funeral in Cambodia, Feb 6
LTO Cambodia blog: The Kantha Bopha Memorial, Feb 6
John Vink blog: King N. Sihanouk Funeral, Last Days 10, Feb 6
The Diplomat: Cambodian King Sihanouk’s Final Journey by Luke Hunt, Feb 6 
AFP: Cambodia's king is dead, long live the PM, Feb 6
The Economist: Loyal to the end, Feb 6

VOA: Monks Take Center Stage as Sihanouk Rituals Continue, Feb 7
Cambodia ends lavish funeral for ex-king Sihanouk, Feb 7
China Daily: Funeral of Sihanouk ends, remains placed in palace, Feb 7
LTO Cambodia blog: Funeral of Sihanouk: Day 7, the end, Feb 7
John Vink blog: King N. Sihanouk Funeral, Last Days 11, Feb 7
The Cambodia Daily: France Pushes Hun Sen on Human Rights Record, Feb 7

VOA: Sihanouk’s Golden Urn Returned to Royal Palace, Feb 8
Sihanouk's ashes enter the Royal Palace, Feb 8
Mouthful (blog): "In the West we seem to have forgotten how lengthy grief...", Feb 8

Binay back from Cambodia Sihanouk cremation rites, Feb 9
VOA: National Grieving Shows Importance of Monarchy: Analyst, Feb 9


Thursday, February 7, 2013

Funeral of Sihanouk: Day 7, the end


This morning urns containing the ashes of the late King Father Sihanouk were returned from the Veal Preah Man crematorium to the Royal Palace via an elaborate procession, the King and Queen Mother in attendance, the ashes borne by a the same Hang Bird hearse that carried the King Father's coffin when he was returned from China 3 months ago. Though there have been reports that the ashes are to be placed in the 'Kantha Bopha Stupa' at the Silver Pagoda per the late King Father's wishes, this has not yet been confirmed. The procession of the ashes to the Palace was the final public act of the funeral, effectively bringing to a close the week long funeral and mourning period.

By midday, most of the streets in the Palace area that had been shut for several days were reopened or at least partially opened with most of the orange and white barricades removed. (Sothearos Blvd in front of the Palace remained closed, but has been for almost a year now, somewhat inexplicably and unrelated to the death of the King Father.) Motor traffic flowed freely on Sisowath Quay, Street 240, Street 214 and Street 19 and though the roads around Veal Preah Man were still mostly blocked to motor traffic, pedestrians were able to move unimpeded through the area.

All of the offering tables in front of the Royal Palace are now gone, only a line of incense bowls filled with spent joss sticks remain. By late afternoon workers were collecting the piles of dead offering flowers from the front of the Palace into hand carts and hauling them away, leaving a trail of rotting brown lotus buds and stems along Sothearos. The Palace guards were out of their dress whites and back in  khaki. Black ribbons, funerary pendents and Sihanouk posters will still on sale from street vendors, but the number of vendors was less than half of the day before. A few mourners linger in the area, but the crowds are gone, back to ordinary life, many presumably returning to the countryside from whence they came. At 5PM a couple of dozen mourners still stood at front (east) gate of Veal Preah Man, and perhaps a dozen more at the north gate. When I passed around sunset, the Palace park, which has been the center of mourning activity for the last 3+ months, was all but empty of mourners, only two old ladies quietly paying their final respects.

The funeral complete, table talk is now turning quickly to Chinese New Year, Cambodia's most popular unofficial holiday, coming up on the 10th.

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

The Kantha Bopha Memorial

HRH Princess Kantha Bopha Memorial Sanctuary at the Silver Pagoda (next to the Royal Palace)

The late King Father Sihanouk was cremated two days ago. Yesterday the ashes were collected from the crematorium (Veal Preah Man) and most were taken by royal barge to Chaktomuk and scattered to the Mekong River. Some of the ashes will be taken back to the Royal Palace to be placed in a 'Diamond Urn' and kept there. AFP reported that an unnamed Palace official said "the royal urn containing the King-Father's remains will be kept in the Kantha Bopha stupa," which would make a very touching final resting place for the late King Father.

Princess Kantha Bopha was the beloved daughter of King Sihanouk and Princess Sisowath Pongsanmoni, born in 1948 when Sihanouk was a young King and Cambodia still under French colonial rule. She died of leukemia in 1952 at the age of 3 (or 4). It is said that King Sihanouk was inconsolably grief stricken, even carrying the urn containing her ashes when traveling abroad. In 1960 Sihanouk erected a memorial sanctuary to the Princess (pictured above) on the grounds of Wat Preah Keo Morokat (the 'Silver Pagoda') next to the Royal Palace, the sanctuary set amongst the stupas of Cambodian Kings.

The sanctuary is referred to as the 'Kantha Bopha Memorial Sanctuary' in Julio Jeldres' authoritative 'The Royal Palace of Phnom Penh' (1999.) I'm not sure if this is also the said "Kantha Bopha stupa" of the AFP article, but am unaware of any other structure on the Palace/Pagoda grounds of that name.

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Funeral of Sihanouk: Day 5, ashes

Sunset on the Palace
The 'Four Faces' crowning the spire of the Throne Hall 
at the Royal Palace. Sunset, February 5, 2013

The late King Father Norodom Sihanouk was cremated yesterday evening at the Veal Preah Man (Meru) next to the Royal Palace. This morning the ashes of the pyre were collected from the crematorium and transported by procession to the the royal funerary barge docked near the Preah Ong Dong Ar Temple in front of the Royal Palace area on the Tonle Sap River. The barge, pulled by a tug boat, ferried the ashes and attendees a short distance to the confluence of the Mekong River, the 'Chaktomuk,' literally translated, the 'Four Faces' of the Mekong, where most of the ashes were lowered to the river in sacks, scattered to the waters.

With the ashes gone, the tiered Royal parasol that crowned Veal Preah Man (Meru) was removed, and stood conspicuous in its absence today. The remaining ashes will be returned to the Palace and ultimately the 'Silver Pagoda' where, according to AFP, they will be placed in the "Kantha Bopha stupa," King Sihanouk's beloved daughter, Kantha Bopha, who died as a child.

The Chaktomuk, literally translated the 'Four Faces,' is the riverine crossroads in the heart of Cambodia where the Mekong River and its tributary the Tonle Sap meet and connect Phnom Penh to the 'four corners' of Cambodia - the old Angkorian capital to the west, Laos to the north and the South China Sea to the south and east, loosely quartering into the four cardinal point. When the Khmer capital moved from Angkor to the banks of the confluence of the Mekong in the 15th century, the area was known as 'Chaktomuk,' only later becoming 'Phnom Penh.' This move also reflected a fundamental shift in the nature of the Khmer empire, from an agrarian society to a trade based society, harkening back to the old empire of Funan.

The Four Faces is also a theme echoed throughout Khmer art and architecture. The spire of Throne Hall of the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh is crowned by Four Faces, the design of which is said to have received inspiration from the Four Face monuments of Bayon temple at Angkor. Today, Sihanouk was laid to final rest at the Chaktomuk, the Four Faces, at the geographic and spiritual heart of post-Angkorian Cambodia.  


Spires of the Throne Hall of the Royal Palace, Phnom Penh (2011). The Palace sits on Sothearos Blvd. about 100 meters off river, overlooking the Chaktomuk.

'Four faces' at Angkor, Bayon, Angkor Thom, Siem Reap province, circa 13th century AD.

Map of the area around the confluence of the Mekong River, Chaktomuk, Cambodia

Map of the area around the confluence of the Mekong River, Chaktomuk, Cambodia

Veal Preah Man with tiered-parasol removed. Feruary 5, 2013, 5:00PM.

Royal funerary barge, its duty discharged, being tugged into port. The Chaktomuk ('Four Faces' of the Mekong River) in the background.)

Empty, barricaded street in front of the Royal Palace. Most of the area remained closed to the public today, though the police seemed a bit looser in enforcement. People (Cambodians) that I spoke to on the street continued to complain about being kept away from the funeral and the security measures in general. Everybody seems to have a story of some country person that had gone to extraordinary lengths to travel to Phnom Penh for the funeral, only to be denied access. Other Cambodians say that despite the heavy police presence, crime has in fact been rife, recounting tales of pickpockets, robberies and assaults in the riverfront area, adding that while the police have been effective at protecting the elite and keeping the public away from the funeral, they have done little else. I don't have any confirmation of these claims of increased crime, but true or not, it likely reflects an increasing frustration with how security and crowd control have been handled. 

Monday, February 4, 2013

Funeral of Sihanouk: Day 4, cremation

The pyre lit 20 minutes earlier, smoke emanates from Veal Preah Man.
Rest in Peace King Sihanouk.
 
Today, day 4 of King Father Norodom Sihanouk's funeral, was the day of the primary ceremony and the cremation. The ceremony was attended by family, friends, monks, government officials and foreign dignitaries. Dozens of journalists and photographers were in evidence. Most of the area was sealed off to the general public. The ceremony appeared to come off without a hitch, culminating in the lighting of the funeral pyre and smoke emanating from the crematorium, sometimes profusely. Afterward, there was another cannon salute, more fireworks, and the barricades keeping the public at bay were opened shortly thereafter. The Palace area was almost immediately filled with what I would estimate to be in the tens of thousands of people. 
   
Hotels around  Veal Preah Man were instructed to cover their windows to 
prevent people from looking down on the area.

Mid-afternoon. Dignitaries and other attendees begin to arrive at Veal Preah Man.

The entire area around Veal Preah Man (Meru) and the Royal Palace was closed to the general public. Only those with passes, people that lived in the surrounding buildings, a smattering of tourists that happened to be staying at hotels within the area, and a fortunate few that somehow managed to finagle their way past the cordon were able to get close enough to Veal Preah Man to have a view of the proceedings. This small group of mourners sat in a small alley opposite the north gate of Veal Preah Man (Meru.)

Dozens of foreign dignitaries came to pay their respects, passing slowly 
through the crematorium and exiting by the north door.

The honor gaurd's duty complete, they make their final retreat from the crematorium. 

The King.

Smoke rises from the crematorium. 6:54PM. 

Mourner at north gate of Veal Preah Man. The pyre lit and smoke rising. 

Shortly after the cremation, I left Veal Preah Man, walked to the Palace area and then north up Sisowath Quay, all of which was still almost completely empty of people. At Street 154, thousands and thousands of people who had been kept away from the funeral area were waiting on the other side of a barricade. About 10 minutes later the police opened parts of the barricade and began to let people through...
 
Within 15 minute the Royal Palace area, including the riverfront park, the Palace park, Sisowath Quay and Sothearos Blvd in front of the Palace was filled with people, laying flowers at the Palace, trying to get a glimpse of Veal Preah Man and the rising smoke, sitting in the parks and street watching a replay of the funeral proceedings on the giant TV mounted on the face of the Palace...

Watching the big TV


Sunday, February 3, 2013

Funeral of Sihanouk: Day 3

Riverfront vendors selling Sihanouk posters and photos.

Today, day 3 of King Father Norodom Sihanouk's funeral, was much like yesterday. The official proceedings, even as stated in the official program, were the "same as Day 2." The Royal Palace park and the road immediately in front of Veal Preah Meru (Sothearos Blvd) remained closed. The King and Queen Mother attended religious ceremonies at the crematorium in the early evening and people crowded at two of the gates (primarily the north gate) to offer respects and try to get a glimpse.

Getting access to the area continued to be a tedious process today due to the many street barricades and restricted access to some areas. Enforcement was still uneven though the police seem to be stricter about enforcing the rules today. Like yesterday, people are still grumbling about the lack of access to the area. Scenes of people trying to talk their way past the police barricade are common, and most often unsuccessful. Nevertheless the crowds are generally respecting the cordon and behaving in an orderly fashion.

Crowds in the Palace area and riverfront area were moderate during the day and increased in size dramatically in the evening, again many people gathering opposite the Palace in the evening to watch the proceedings within Veal Preah Meru on the giant TV mounted on the Palace face. During the day, the shrines at the Preah Ong Dong Ar Temple opposite the Palace on Sisowath Quay were quite busy with people making offerings. The sight of the Royal Barge docked on the river next to the temple also seemed to attract considerable attention.

The following are a couple of shaky iPad videos, which, though not of very good quality, might give some feel for the scene and atmosphere in the Royal Palace area this evening. 


Scene on Street 178 at the north gate of Veal Preah Meru this evening at about 6:10PM.

 
Scene on Sisowath Quay in front of the Royal Palace this evening at about 7:00PM.


Riverfront park, late afternoon.

Trying to get a glimpse, or just as close as possible, at the north gate of Veal Preah Meru

Barge docked next to Preah Ong Dong Ar Temple, presumably the Royal Barge that will transport the ashes of King Father Sihanouk to the Tonle Chaktomuk (the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap Rivers) on Day 5.

Funeral schedule for tomorrow, day 4, cremation

New 1000 riel notes issues last week, bearing the image of King Father Norodom Sihanouk on the face 
and an image of the King Father's hearse from the first funerary procession (October 18, 2012) 


Brief outline of a rough translation of the schedule of Sihanouk's funeral for Day 4, as issued by the Ministry of Information:

6:00am to 12:00noon - The same as the 2nd and 3rd day.
16:00pm - Meeting of monks, royal family, government, senate, parliament, army, secretary of state.
16:30pm - Ambassadors arrive at the south of Veal Preach Meru.
                  - Royal family and government officers arrive at the south gate of Veal Preah Meru.
17:10pm - Hun Sen, Chea Sim, Heng Samrin and spouses arrive the south of Veal Preah Meru.
17:20pm - Foreign dignitaries arrive at Veal Preah Meru.
17:40pm - The King and Queen Mather arrive at Veal Preah Meru.
17:50pm - 90 monks perform ceremony.
18:00pm - The King and the Queen Mother apply fire the funeral pyre.Cremation.
              - Cannon salute on the riverfront for a the 3rd time.
              - The King and the Queen mother mark release over 400 prisoners The King and the Queen mother  give gifts at the front of Veal Preah Meru.

--------------------

Edit: Feb 4, mid-day - Hearing rumors of various times for the cremation that differ from the officially published schedule. At least one reliable source now says 5PM.  

Saturday, February 2, 2013

Funeral of Sihanouk: Day 2

Veal Preah Meru crematorium, Funeral of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Preah Meru (crematorium)

Much of the Palace area was closed to the public today as, reportedly, the Royal family, government officials and others were attending a private ceremony or gathering. When I got to the area in the afternoon the closure was being erratically enforced, police letting some people pass barricades into the area on some streets, but barring entry from other streets. Still, the immediate Palace area was almost devoid of people throughout the day, which is the first time I've seen that since that in the last three months. 

At some checkpoints people were clearly frustrated at being refused admittance to the area. I am told that on TV today government begged understanding for the blockades, citing security and safety, and also reminding people of public visiting hours for Veal Preah Meru. Though I did not see it, I understand the Veal Preah Meru was open to the public from 1PM-4PM today and that there were long lines waiting to enter. According to the official schedule, it will be open to the public again tomorrow (Feb 3,) from 1PM-4PM, for those who wish to pay their respects.

The King and Queen Mother attended a religious (Buddhist) ceremony at the crematorium beginning at about 5PM, 'giving gifts to 90 monks.' Monks could be seen coming and going from the crematorium. Hundreds of people gathered along the side entrances (north and west) and the blocked street (Sothearos) near the front gate to try to get a glimpse of the King and Queen, and to pray and offer their respects...and to take a few photos with their phones and iPads. Thousands of others gathered along Sisowath Quay opposite the Royal Palace to watch the proceedings on a giant TV mounted on the front of the Palace. The ceremony ended shortly after 8PM, the King and Queen returned to the Palace, and a 20 minute fireworks display sounded over the riverfront.  

There has been an explosion of vendors selling funerary accoutrements in the area - dozens and dozens of vendors lining the surrounding streets, some selling on foot - vending flowers, incense, candles, black ribbons, and the most popular selling item, various photo posters of Sihanouk. Early this evening, after 6PM or so, there were tens of thousands of people along the length of Sisowath Quay, and vendors of all sorts lined the way, selling not only flowers and posters, but snacks and drinks, knick-knacks, balloons, even toys. People filled the riverfront park and street opposite the Palace (the Palace park was still closed in the evening,) sitting in groups, many burning candles and incense, some praying, meditating, mourning. Further north along the riverfront the mood was respectful but lighter, the streets and park full, people doing a bit of shopping and snacking and strolling the area.      

Funeral of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Three months ago during the first mourning period for the King Father, this good-hearted lady offered free incense and candles in front of her shop to passing mourners on their way to the Royal Palace. Today I saw her, once again sitting at her shop on Sothearos Blvd offering free incense and black ribbons to passers-by, now amongst several street vendors selling the same.

People in park at funeral of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Royal Palace park at 4PM, sans people.

Ghost flag, Veal Preah Meru, Funeral of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
'Ghost flag' at Veal Preah Meru

Crowds, funeral procession of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Crowd outside north gate of Veal Preah Meru, awaiting the arrival of the King and Queen Mother. 

Monks entering Preah Meru

Mourners, funeral of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Mourners on the sidewalk outside Veal Preah Meru

Riverfront crowds, funeral of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Sisowath Quay, the riverfront road, 9:00PM.


Friday, February 1, 2013

Funeral of Sihanouk: Day 1, Procession

Funeral procession of King Norodom Sihanouk, Royal Palace, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
The coffin bearing the remains of King Father Norodom Sihanouk 
leave the Royal Palace by the Victory Gate, bound to be lifted onto the hearse and 
begin the funerary procession around Phnom Penh.
February 1, 2013

Today, February 1, was the first day of King Father Sihanouk's funeral proceedings, a week long mourning period in which the King Father's mortal remains will receive their final treatment. A special crematorium and funerary complex has been constructed for the King Father over the last three months, located next to the Palace and in front of the National Museum, in the Veal Preah Man (Meru) Park. Today the King Father's coffin was moved from the Royal Palace, where he has been lying in state for three months, to the crematorium via an elaborate procession that circuited the inner city.

Just before 8:00AM, the coffin was first moved from the Preah Tineang Tevea Vinichhay (Throne Hall) and Royal Palace grounds, through the Victory Gate, straight up the road in front of the Palace (Preah Ponhea Yath Av.) to the area of the Preah Ong Dong Ar Temple on the riverfront, where the funerary procession and Royal Hearse awaited on Sisowath Quay Blvd. The King and Queen Mother followed and observed the coffin lifted to the hearse, after which they returned to the Palace. As the procession began to move at about 8:45AM, a cannon salute was fired from 12 artillery pieces lining the riverfront next to the temple. (I didn't count the shots but I would estimate about 24.) The procession consisted of more than a dozen vehicles and floats as well as thousands of mourners, family, dignitaries, military and representatives of ethnic groups clad in various traditional dress.

The procession traveled a 6 kilometer circuit, beginning on Sisowath Quay in front of the Preah Ong Dong Ar Temple and finishing at the Veal Preah Man crematorium. It began traveling north up the riverfront, turned west to Wat Phnom, semi-circled the roundabout and proceeded south on Norodom Blvd to the Independence Monument, tuned east on Sihanouk and continued to Sothearos Blvd, turned north and returned to the Palace area, arriving at the the front of Veal Peah Man crematorium at about noon. All businesses were closed along the entire route and people forbidden from standing above the procession on balconies and roof tops. Hundreds of thousands of mourners lined the way, but in my estimation the crowd was noticeably smaller and thinner than the crowd that showed for the return of the King Father's remains from China 3 months ago. A dress code was fairly strictly enforced by minders and police - white shirt/blouse, black pants/skirt, black arm bands or ribbons, no hats, etc.

As the returning procession passed the Royal Palace on Sothearos, it stopped at the Victory Gate where the King and Queen Mother rejoined the procession to the crematorium. A second cannon salute was fired at about 12:15PM.

Over the next two days the coffin will remain in place at the crematorium. Various religious ceremonies will be performed. The actual cremation will take place Monday, February 4. 
    

King Sihamoni and Queen Mother Monineath, Funeral of Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
King Norodom Sihamoni and Queen Mother Norodom Monineath

Prime Minister Hun Sen at Funeral of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Prime Minister Hun Sen

Funeral procession and coffin of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Coffin bearing the remains of King Father Norodom Sihanouk

Press at Funeral of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
The press

Apsaras at Funeral procession of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Traditional dancers wait for the proceedings to begin

Cannon salute at funeral of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
First cannon salute. Riverfront, Phnom Penh.

Funeral procession of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Procession mourners

Funeral procession of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Procession mourners

Funeral procession of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Procession mourner

Frontispiece of the hearse

Neak Bun Chhay in Funeral procession of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Neak Bun Chhay (second from left holding flower,) in the funeral procession

Funeral procession of King Norodom Sihanouk, Royal Palace, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Procession approaches Palace and the end of the city circuit.

Funeral procession of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Procession mourners (representing tribal peoples)

Funeral procession of King Norodom Sihanouk, Royal Palace, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Hearse bearing coffin passing the Royal Palace at the end of the procession.

Animal float in Funeral procession of King Norodom Sihanouk, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
One of two animal floats