Window Bo

Wat Bo, Siem Reap, Cambodia

To Build a Road*

(* or: 'An Irishman walks into a bar...')

A Japanese company comes to Cambodia to build a road. They do a professional job, get it done almost on schedule, pick up most of the tab, employ local workers at decent wages, donate maintenance equipment and send an expert back periodically to follow up. While in town, the execs spend freely on karaoke, Johnny Walker Blue and young girls. The road is still in excellent condition more than a decade later.

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A Chinese company comes to Cambodia to build a road from the highway to some natural resource. They do a thin but serviceable job, get it done relatively quickly, clear cut miles of jungle on either side for the hardwoods, pay off officials, treat local workers like expendable slaves and dump broken equipment and old fuel oil in the river. While in town, the execs spend lots on karaoke, Johnny Walker Black and young girls. When the project is complete, they abandon dozens of Chinese workers in the country. High level government officials praise their fine work and strings-free generosity. The road disintegrates in 2 or 3 years.

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An American government-funded contractor comes to Cambodia to rebuild some road they blew up back in the 70s. First they build a massive walled compound for the American workers to live. They fly all new state of the art construction equipment in from America. They begin a series of regular airlifts to bring in all food, water and Budweiser from America. They set up a church group. The US embassy in conjunction with MTV Exit produces a list of approved bars, restaurants and sights that the American workers are allowed to visit. They send in an advance team of security and engineering experts to survey and secure the area.

They announce start up of the project will depend on improvement in Cambodia’s human rights, anti-trafficking efforts and election reform. Cambodia promises. They begin work on the road using a combination of well paid American and local workers. They threaten to stop work and demand improvement in Cambodia’s human rights, anti-trafficking efforts and election reform. Cambodia promises. They continue working.

They stop work while a congressional committee headed by Dana Rohrabacher debates whether Cambodia is living up to its human rights, anti-trafficking efforts and election reform promises. Nobody cares. They resume work. Somebody gets mugged in Phnom Penh. They stop work and evacuate all American workers to Guam. Six months later a security team is sent in. The team deems it safe enough. The American workers return to Cambodia to find all the supplies, machinery and even the newly laid road have disappeared.

They fly in more supplies and equipment from America. They start work again. They finish the road – truly a first rate job, probably the best road in Cambodia. They adorn it with US flag emblazoned plaques and monuments.

They hold a dedication ceremony attended by the US ambassador and the second assistant secretary of the local sangkat. The American contractors leave. A US government official announces that further aid will depend on Cambodia’s record on human rights, anti-trafficking efforts and election reform. Two months later the Cambodians set up toll booths, paint oknha names over the flags and the road is used to haul illegal timber and traffic sex slaves.
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A French company comes to Cambodia and doesn’t build a road.

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A Vietnamese company comes to Cambodia to build a road from the Vietnam border to some nearby Cambodian village. They use mostly Vietnamese labor, do a thin but serviceable job, and get it done on time. While in town, the execs spend a modest amount on karaoke, Johnny Walker Red and young girls. The project complete, all the Vietnamese workers stay in Cambodia and eventually send for their families to join them.

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A Russian company comes to Cambodia to build a road to a Russian financed pleasure palace development. On paper it costs 20 times more than any other road in Cambodia. They begin work. Work stops when the entire executive crew dies of alcohol poisoning. A year later a new group of executives arrives and work resumes. Work stops when two are arrested, one is shot, several disappear and the rest die of alcohol poisoning again. Two years later a new group of executives arrives and work resumes. Ultimately they build a good, serviceable road, using local labor at local wages. The pleasure palace is never completed, but (on paper) remains fully booked, year-round, at rack rates.

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A Thai company owned by a consortium of Thai generals comes to Cambodia to build a road. And in fact they build dozens of roads from the border deep into the jungle, and don’t tell anybody about it.

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A Malaysian furniture company comes to Cambodia to build a US$1,000,000 road if they can also build an entertainment complex. They build half an entertainment complex and put out the word that they are looking for investors.

One year later construction on the road has not yet begun and the Cambodian government asks what’s going on. The Malaysians announce they are holding an Investors Gala Celebration with free flow of Angkor Beer. Tickets $35/pax. At the Gala they announce their intentions to build a US$10,000,000 road. They build half a hotel attached to the half-built entertainment complex.

Two years later construction on the road has not yet begun and the Cambodian government asks what’s going on. The Malaysians announce they are holding a 5-star Grand Investors Gala Celebration with live Filipino band and free flow of Angkor Beer. Tickets $65/pax. At the Gala they announce their intentions to build a US$100,000,000 road. A Chinese restaurant is added to the half-hotel.

Four years later construction on the road has not yet begun and the Cambodian government asks what’s going on. The Malaysians announce they are holding a Supreme 6-Star Investors Super Gala Celebration with live Filipino band, a grand drawing and free flow of Tiger Beer. Tickets $85/pax++. At the Gala they announce their intentions to build a US$1,000,000,000 road.

Two years later construction on the road has not yet begun and the Cambodian government asks what’s going on. The Malaysians say “Road?”

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A Cambodian import-export company sets up to build a road using aid money donated by the EU. They retrieve the old Chinese equipment from the river, refurbish it using solder and bailing wire and filter the fuel oil from the water. They use the aid money to buy luxury cars and karaoke, Johnny Walker Blue and young girls. They gas up the old Chinese equipment with the recovered fuel oil and use it to flatten the ground into a basic but serviceable hardpack road. They call it “done.” The hardpack disintegrates the following rainy season. The Cambodians ask the EU for more aid to help rebuild the road. The EU sends money. A Cambodian import-export company sets to rebuild the road using the aid money. They retrieve the old Chinese equipment…

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(All companies and projects appearing in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real companies or projects, living or dead, is purely coincidental.)

Originally published on Khmer440.com

Mourners, Monks and Nuns

Today was Day 17 since the death of King Father Sihanouk. It would have been his 91st birthday (as Cambodians count birthdays,) his 90th as westerners count. In the late afternoon thousand of monks, nuns and mourners arrived for a mass ceremony in front of the Palace...

 

 

 

 

Links:
VOA: Authorities Consider Public Palace Viewing of ‘King Father’

Death of Sihanouk: Day 16

Brief update, notes.

Mourning continues at the front of the Royal Palace. There are never less than dozens of mourners present, usually hundreds, particularly in the evenings. Last weekend there were thousands all day. More people seem to be arriving in large groups now, often trucked or bussed in from the countryside. As before, people sit in groups in the road opposite the King Father's portrait to mourn and pray, they make flower offerings at the front of the Palace and incense offerings at the urns on the park sidewalk, some sign the visitor books and take photos of themselves in front of the Palace. A large LED screen showing scenes of the funerary proceedings and a placard with an image of the King Father's coffin have recently been affixed to the face of the Place Pavilion.

There are fewer journalists this week and more tourists and beggars about. Security and crowd control is a little tighter and more organized. Away from the mourners the atmosphere feels a bit more mercenary now. Street kids are working the candle tables. There has been a noticeable increase in vendors, most selling lotus flowers, incense, portrait pins, Sihanouk photos and snacks. At least a dozen child vendors are hawking portrait pins in front of the Palace, some in the same pestering manner they work the tourist districts, for example, putting their wares in front of your camera when you are trying to take a photo (see above.)

Several streets around the Palace were closed again today, snarling traffic once again.

Tomorrow, October 31, would be the King Father's 91st (90th) Birthday.

Links:
Phnom Penh Post: A cremation fit for a King
Phnom Penh Post: A cremation fit for a King
Phnom Penh Post: Statue of Sihanouk set for Dragon Park

'Norodom Sihanouk - A Rock Star King' by Kevin Barrington
(An inspired response to the Gourevitch piece in The New Yorker - 'The Fantasy of King Sihanouk')

'Bill Moyers, Prince Sihanouk (and Me)' by Michael Winship

Cambodian Reflections: Local Specifics and Global Concerns by Brian Stoddart

Royal Palace Pavilion, 3:30PM, October 30, 2012

Sihanouk Photos

Photo vendor at the Royal Palace

To date, photos of Sihanouk have been one of the few available mementos of King Father Sihanouk's passing. (Portrait pins and commemorative t-shirts are also available.) I noticed the first vendors selling Sihanouk photos in front of the Palace on the evening of Day 3, the day of Sihanouk's return, offering a selection of just 3 or 4 different photos. Both the number of vendors and variety of photos have increased steadily since. As of this afternoon there were at least a couple of dozen photo vendors in front of the Palace and as many different photos. After the portrait shots, the family photos seem the most popular. I was quoted prices of 1000-2000 riel (US$0.25 - US$0.50) per photo, though 1000 riel seems to be the 'right price.' The follow is a selection of the memento photos that I bought from vendors at the Palace over the last few days.    

One of the most popular selling photos. Monineath, Sihamoni, Sihanouk (c.1970?)

Also a popular selling photo. Prince Ranariddh, Queen Mother Monineath, King Father Sihanouk, King Sihamoni, Princess Bopha Devi

Monineath, Sihanouk

King Sihanouk

King Norodom Sihanouk, Queen Norodom Monineath. Royal Ploughing Day, 1969.

King Father Sihanouk, King Sihamoni, Queen Mother Monineath. Coronation of Sihamoni, 2004.

King Norodom Sihanouk

King Norodom Sihanouk

Prime Minister Norodom Sihanouk

Queen Monineath, King Sihanouk

King Sihanouk

King Sihanouk

King Sihanouk

Sihanouk in Moon, October 21, 2012

Sihanouk in Moon over Palace, October 21, 2012

Sihanouk in Moon, October 21, 2012

Death of Sihanouk: Day 11, Waiting

Mourners at the Victory Gate

Things seemed to be winding down in front of the Royal Palace today (25/10/12), at least when I visited the area mid-afternoon. Instead of usual thousands or hundreds of mourners crowding the street, there were only dozens. The kneeling rugs on the sidewalk opposite the Pavilion had been removed, the offering tables devoid of flowers and photos, the incense urns that had been so stuffed this week that they regularly burst into flames now contained only the red spines of spent joss sticks. Though some remained, many of the vendors selling Sihanouk photos, incense and candles and black ribbons had disappeared. Most of the streets around the Palace have been reopened and the tuk-tuks and motos had taken up their usual roadside spots. Pockets of mourners lingered - a small group sitting on the street in front of the Pavilion, a few at the remaining offering tables burning incense and signing the guestbooks, small family groups sitting in the park and under shade trees, and a constant cluster of mourners at the Victory Gate, loitering and talking, peering through the ironwork for any glimpse, some mourners seemingly waiting. Limited as it is, that gate offers the best view into the Palace area, facing the Throne Hall and across the gardens toward the Khemarin Palace. People want to get closer, to see the King Father to pay their last respects.

The King Father's body will reportedly lie in state for three months, and be available for public viewing part of that time, beginning perhaps as early as tomorrow according to the Phnom Penh Post. 

The park opposite the Royal Palace Pavilion

Sothearos Blvd in front of the Royal Palace.

Death of Sihanouk: Day 9, Prayer

Day 9 (23/10/12) since the death of King Father Norodom Sihanouk of Cambodia. And Day 7 - the final day - of the official week of mourning that began on October 17 when the late King Father was returned to Cambodia. Prayers in front of the Royal Palace this evening at about 6:00PM, led by thousands of monks (estimated number of monks vary at this point.) Though there have been hundreds, sometimes thousands of mourners in front of the Royal Palace ever since the death of the King Father, this is the largest turnout since the King Father's return to Cambodia on Day 3. Tens of thousands were in attendance.

Sorry for the shaky camera work and poor resolution. I was in the middle of a crowd holding an iPad above my head. I'm working on it and hope to have a sharper, steadier version up by tomorrow.

Links:
Cambodians gather by the thousands to honor fallen King on last day of official mourning period
Night Mourners in Cambodia – The Moon Effect

Sihanouk in the Moon

Moon on the night of October 21, 2012

Mourners gaze at the moon, front of Royal Palace, afternoon of October 22.

Last night (October 21) at around 8:00PM I received the first of several SMS's from friend saying that people were seeing "Sihanouk's face in the moon," and to "look up now." I was at home so I walked out to the street to get a better view and found several other people already out gazing at the moon. My neighbors stood in front of their house and a couple of passing motorcycles had stopped in the street. Everybody was staring skyward, pointing and talking. I looked up. The moon was clearly visible. It was almost at First Quarter (perhaps still a 49% waxing crescent.) Though high clouds obscured the view at times, the moon could be seen clearly for several minutes at a time. I looked at it for a good long while but couldn't see the face in the moon, at least not specifically Sihanouk's face. My neighbors, on the other hand, appeared quite convinced and stared in wonder. The guard across the street seemed far less persuaded, but didn't press his skepticism. Social media came absolutely alive with moon talk for hours after and again today. Many, many people saw it. Dozens of different photos of the moon were posted on Twitter, Facebook and internet forums, some obviously photoshopped to show Sihanouk's face. On internet, where people are less inhibited in expressing opinion, debates flashed, skeptics calling it mass hysteria and superstition, and some believers citing a lack of respect or even moral fault in those unable to see it.

Last night's moon is still a major topic of conversation today (October 22) amongst the mourners at the Palace. And as the moon was visible during the daytime today, people on the street were still craning their heads toward the moon in the hope of getting a glimpse of the King Father.

Today several of the photo vendors at the Royal Palace are selling photos of last night's moon alongside their regular selection of Sihanouk photos. All of the following photos were purchased from photo vendor in front of the Royal Palace.

 Photo sold by vendors in front of the Palace. Moon on the night on October 21, 2012.

Photo sold by vendors in front of the Palace. Moon on the night on October 21 with a superimposed image of Sihanouk.

Photo sold by vendors in front of the Palace. Moon on the night on October 21 with a superimposed image of Sihanouk.

Photo sold by vendors in front of the Palace, purportedly of the moon on the night on October 21, but the phase does not seem correct. The moon on the 21st was at First Quarter. The moon in this photo looks like a waxing gibbous. 

Photo sold by vendors in front of the Palace, purportedly of the moon over the Palace on the night on October 21, but the scale does not seem correct.

Links:

VOA Khmer: What Cambodians think about tonight moon on our Facebook Page
Phnom Penh Post: Sihanouk’s 'face in the moon'
Phnom Penh Post: One small step for vendors
CTN News (video, See 9:47): Face SM Norodom Sihanouk in the Moon
Au Cambodge, on voit le roi-père Sihanouk dans la lune