Showing posts with label photography. Show all posts
Showing posts with label photography. Show all posts

Sunday, November 2, 2014

Bonn Om Tuk - Water Festival


Cambodia's annual Water Festival (Bonn Om Tuk) is coming up next week - November 5, 6, and 7. The Water Festival celebrates the reversing current of the Tonle Sap River, which, in a unique hydrological phenomenon, changes direction twice a year. This year the current actually reversed about a month ago, now flowing southeast toward the ocean. In Phnom Penh long-boat races are held on the Tonle Sap, colorful dug-out row boats competing for prizes and honors. Fireworks and a water-borne parade of lighted barges cap events in the early evenings.

This will be the first Water Festival held in Phnom Penh since 2010 which ended in the Koh Pich bridge disaster. After the 2010 disaster the festivals in 2011, 12 and 13 were cancelled for various reasons, some less genuine than others. This year the Water Festival returns. Workers are busy sprucing up the river front, boats and teams are arriving from the countryside, the light boat barges are being assembled. The festival has traditionally drawn huge crowds from the countryside, but people are still a bit jittery about the 2010 disaster and it's been 3 years without a festival, making attendance is a bit more difficult to predict this year. Adding to safety fears, during the evening fireworks display on Coronation Day last week, a bystander was killed by a malfunctioning firework shell. Ordinarily more than one million could be expected to attend the Water Festival.

The following are a few snapshots from Water Festivals in Phnom Penh in 2004, 2005 and 2007.

Riverfront crowd 2004

2005 - note the small buildings and earthen banks on the far side of the river before the development of the last few years. 




Riverfront crowd 2005 





King Sihamoni - 2005

Decorated barge in the Light Boat Parade on the river 
(for scale, note the people standing along the front.)


Friday, December 13, 2013

Sihanoukville Railway Station


The Sihanoukville Railway Station was designed and built by Georges Kondracki and a German engineer in the late 1960s. It was the last of three major train stations built as part the construction of the Phnom Penh - Sihanoukville rail link constructed between 1960 and 1969. The Sihanoukville Railway Station was scheduled to be completed in 1967 but was not completed and inaugurated until 1969.









Monday, August 12, 2013

Balance B

Symmetry enough

Buddha shrine within vihear of the pagoda next to the ruins of Bakong, Roluos Group, Siem Reap, Cambodia 

Saturday, July 20, 2013

Sam Rainsy returns

Sam Rainsy returns, July 19, Phnom Penh
Sam Rainsy returns

After 3 years abroad avoiding a politically tainted criminal conviction and sentence, last week Cambodian opposition party leader Sam Rainsy was granted a royal pardon by the king, allowing him to return to the country. Yesterday (July 19) he did just that, arriving from France by Thai Airways at the Phnom Penh International Airport at 9:05AM. Just in time for the July 28 elections in Cambodia. He was greeted by tens of thousands of supporters in what The Cambodia Daily dubbed the largest opposition rally ever in Cambodia. Estimates of the final crowd size are currently running 50,000-110,000, with it more likely closer to the top end, probably around 70,000-100,000. Tuktuks and market talk place it at an (impossible) million or more. Regardless, the turnout far exceeded the 40,000 the party was hoping for.

Tens of thousands of people awaited Sam Rainsy's arrival outside the airport, and the full length of Airport Road into town (8.5km) was lined elbow-to-elbow with supporters on one side and sometimes both sides of the road. The crowds were thicker and thinner in parts, but unbroken, sometimes as much as 2 or 3 people deep. Sam Rainsy and Ken Sokha (the party's vice) stood hand-in-hand atop a truck as they traveled from the airport to town, smiling and waving to supporters' enthusiastic cheers. Demographically, the crowds seemed overwhelmingly young (under 35,) including some monks, and though there were some rural folk there, most seemed to be urbanites.

The convoy left the airport and followed Airport Road to town, both preceded and followed by supporters, most on motorcycles or on foot. It then jogged a block north to Freedom Square where tens of thousands more were waiting, the convoy ended and Sam Rainsy addressed the crowds. The whole journey took 3-4 hours from airport to Freedom Park.

The main themes of the Airport Road crowds, repeated again and again, were "change" and "Number 7", the place of the CNRP (Sam Rainsy's party) on the ballot. (The CPP, the ruling party, holds the number 4 position on the ballot.)The general atmosphere was positive, enthusiastic, energetic, peaceful and well controlled. People yelled "Change or no change?" and others or the crowd would respond "CHANGE!" They also chanted "Change 4 to 7", "4 out, 7 in", and of course simply "Number 7!" Some added, "No corruption!", "Still poor." and "We must change the government!" Everybody flashed seven fingers. A few pockets also included some anti-Vietnamese chants such as "Vietnamese out" ('Yuon cheng') and "Change number 4, change number Vietnamese," (which rhymes in Khmer, 'Do lek buon, do lek yuon') in a reference to the ethnic Vietnamese and/or the perceived alignment of the current government with Vietnam.

Sam Rainsy is said to be planning to spend this last week before election day campaigning for the party in the provinces. He is apparently already off to Kampong Speu.

Crowds of supporters follow Sam Rainsy convoy
Crowds follow Sam Rainsy convoy on Airport Road.

CNRP supporters flash 7
Supporters lining Airport Road flash 'Number 7' 

Shot from my car window, starting in front of the Airport and traveling up Airport Road about 10 minutes ahead of the Sam Rainsy convoy.

Kem Sokha
Kem Sokha

Sam Rainsy and Kem Sokha, July 19, 2013
Kem Sokha and Sam Rainsy.

CNRP supporters flash 7
CNRP supporters on Airport Road.

A group of musically inclined CNRP supporters on Airport Road, awaiting Sam Rainsy's arrival.

Crowds precedes Sam Rainsy convoy on Airport Road.

Supporters lining Airport Road flash 'Number 7'

Throngs of supporters following the Sam Rainsy convoy on Airport Road..

CNRP supporters on motos, Sam Rainsy return
Supporters lining Airport Road flash 'Number 7' 


CNRP supporters flash 7
Supporter on Airport Road flashes 'Number 7' 


CNRP supporters, Sam Rainsy return
Crowds follow Sam Rainsy convoy on Airport Road.

CNRP supporters, Sam Rainsy return
Crowds follow Sam Rainsy convoy on Airport Road.

CNRP supporters, Sam Rainsy return
Supporters lining Airport Road flash 'Number 7' 

CNRP supporters, Sam Rainsy return
Crowds precedes Sam Rainsy convoy on Airport Road.

CNRP supporters, Sam Rainsy return
CNRP supporter.

CNRP supporters, Sam Rainsy return
Supporters lining Airport Road flash 'Number 7' 


CNRP supporters, Sam Rainsy return
Crowds follow Sam Rainsy convoy on Airport Road.

CNRP supporters, Sam Rainsy return
Crowds follow Sam Rainsy convoy on Airport Road, nearing the city center

CNRP supporters, Sam Rainsy return
Supporters lining Airport Road flash 'Number 7'

CNRP supporters, Sam Rainsy return
Street child collects discarded plastic water bottles from CNRP crowds on Airport Road.

Sunday, March 24, 2013

Thursday, January 31, 2013

Funeral of Sihanouk: Final Touches

A little adjustment and a dab of paint being applied 
to the spire of one of the funerary vehicles.

The funeral of King Father Norodom Sihanouk begins tomorrow, February 1, 2013. The city readies, and final touches are being applied. The ceremony promises to be very elaborate and between 1 and 2.5 million people are expected to attend, many from the countryside. The entire funerary process - a 'second mourning period' - will last a week, beginning on the 1st with a city-circuit funerary procession followed by the cremation 3 days later on the 4th.

The city has been preparing for months, more intensely in the last couple of weeks - building the King Father's extensive crematorium complex next to the Palace, repairing and cleaning the streets along the procession route, erecting portraits, painting curbs and light poles and trimming vegetation. In recent days security across the city has increased considerably, many more police on the streets, barricades for crowd control put in place, road closings around the Royal Palace area widened. The international flags the ordinarily line the riverfront have recently been removed and replaced with exclusively Royal, Buddhist and Cambodian flags at half-staff. Yesterday the crematorium was under-going a final clean-up, the funerary vehicles sat ready in front of the Royal Palace receiving minor adjustments, the parks were being meticulously cleaned and watered and policeman walked the procession routes with loud speakers telling people to remove laundry and clutter from the front of their houses. Tomorrow is the day.

Funerary procession vehicles in front of the Royal Palace, January 30.

Flags at half mast line the riverfront, January 30.

Crowd barricades piled and ready, January 28.

UNESCO building on Sothearos Blvd. with Sihanouk portrait

Sihanouk memorial display in front of Ministry of Justice, Sothearos Blvd.


After the initial mourning period in late October the daily crowds of mourners lingering in front of the Royal Palace began to thin, from thousands, to hundreds and finally dozens. There were always people there, paying respects and mourning, but often less than a hundred or two, except on special occasions such as Sihanouk's 100 day ceremony. Small groups of mourners from the countryside, always clad in white and black, sat in small groups in the road and the park in front of Sihanouk's portrait, praying and meditating. People offered flowers at the Palace wall and had souvenir pictures taken. The number of offering tables in the park opposite the Palace was slowly reduced over the months. But over the past couple of weeks, as the funeral has neared, activity in the area has increased some. On-lookers have become a constant presence at the gate of the rising crematorium and there are now more mourners in attendance and more vendors as well, most selling Sihanouk photos, funeral picture ribbons, flowers, incense and snacks, as well as a few photographers produce souvenir snaps.  

Scene in front of the Royal Palace on the afternoon of January 29, 3013

January 28, 2013. On-lookers at the front gate of the new crematorium complex.

Commemorative photo in front of the Palace.

Vendors in front of Wat Ounalom: photos, posters and ribbons.

Commemorative Sihanouk t-shirts available in the Palace area.

Mourning ribbons available from vendors in the Palace area.


A rough translation of the schedule of Sihanouk's funeral week as published by the Ministry of Information:
Feb 1, 2013 - Funeral process to move the remains of King Father Sihanouk to the crematorium.
Feb 2, 2013 - Lie in state at crematorium.
Feb 3, 2013 - Lie in state at crematorium.
Feb 4, 2012 - Cremation of King Father Sihanouk
Feb 5, 2013 - Collection of the ashes.
Feb 6, 2013 - Procession bearing the ashes to Tonle Chaktomuk (the 'Four Faces', the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap Rivers.)
Feb 7, 2013 - Procession bearing the remaining ashes to the Silver Pagoda (Preah Vihear Preah Keo Morakot)


The Funeral Procession
On February 1st, the King Father's remains will be moved from the Royal Palace to the crematorium (Veal Preah Meru) in the Veal Preah Man Park next to the Palace. The remains will travel by funerary procession on a 6km circuit of the city, beginning and ending at the crematorium. It promises to be a challenge for photographers and journalists: as many as 2 million people will line the procession route, security looks to be tight and the Ministry of Information has issued more than 1000 press passes for the event.

The following description of the route has been published by the government:
1) The procession starts from the crematorium ពីវាលព្រះមេរុ (Veal Preah Meru [Man])
2) It makes its way along the street leading from the gate of the Royal Palace to the popular Preah Ong Dong Ar Temple on Sisowath ឆ្ពោះទៅមុខផ្លូវព្រះអង្គដង្កើ.
3) From there, the procession makes a left and heads north along Sisowath. It goes past the vicinity of the Post Office and then makes a left turn onto Street 95 ផ្លូវលេខ៩៥ (on Google Maps, this street is named a section of Highway 5), the street leading to the Wat Phnom roundabout.
4) It circles the Wat Phnom roundabout and heads south along Norodom Boulevard towards the Independence Monument.
5) At the Independence Monument, it makes a left turn onto Sihanouk Boulevard and heads east towards Sothearos Boulevard.
6) It makes a left turn at Sothearos and heads north along it to finish up at its departure point, the Veal Preah Meru (Man) Crematorium.
As I understand these directions, the procession should follow this route:



Construction of Sihanouk's Crematorium
 In the tradition of earlier Khmer kings, including. King Suramarit, a crematorium and attending structures has been constructed especially for the funeral of King Father Sihanouk in the Veal Preah Man (Meru) park, next to the Royal Palace, in front of the National Museum. The entire structure has risen from nothing to completion in 3 months, construction starting at the beginning of November and finishing touches still being added yesterday (30/1/13).    

Veal Preah Man Park and the National Museum. This photo is a few years old bt the park looked about the same before the construction began. I'm standing in the middle of the park, at about the same place as the central tower will later stand.

November 1, 2012. Construction begins.

November 20, 2012. Central tower begins to rise.

December 1, 2012. Facade foundation being added to central tower. Construction on out structures begins.

December 24, 2012

December 28, 2012. Front gate.

January 25, 2013

January 27, 2013

January 30, 2013



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